Practice saying Wow

Dubai and Oman have grown from relative obscurity into a couple of the world’s hottest destinations – in more ways than one! Craig Sinclair visited these fascinating spots and now fully understands the attraction of the Arabian Gulf.

Looking down as the Emirates pilots conduct their final approach, even the muted tones of the early morning sunlight couldn’t disguise the cobalt blue waters of the Arabian Gulf, and the almost luminous sands of the mainland coming into view.

At this point, you get the first glimpse of Dubai’s famous icons – the Palm Jumeriah development – known locally as The Palm, and the towering spire of the $2000 per night Burj al Arab Hotel, and you find yourself mouthing an almost disbelieving “Wow”!

I definitely recommend a window seat when flying in.

‘Wow’ swiftly becomes the word of the moment, setting the tone for a holiday in Dubai, as you attempt to wrap your mind around the scope of development and opportunity.

For a nation that only really became visible to the western world less than a decade ago, Dubai is instantly recognised – testament to its already world-famous landmarks, and its reputation as a land where no dream is too big. Despite being one of the smallest and lightly populated nations on earth, Dubai packs a big punch – economically, strategically and socially

Aside from the hype, there thankfully remains much about the country and the Arabian Peninsula region that is not yet understood by holidaymakers.

Old meets new

Dubai is a land of contrast and paradox. Its fortune amassed through massive wealth from oil, and while reserves are running low, Dubai is wealthier than ever. Oil is no longer the main source of GDP, with the bulk of revenues now generated through ‘new gold’ in tourism, logistics and the financial sector.

Dubai’s native population represents just 15 per cent of the country’s entire working population, with expatriate contractors and workers from around the world making up the remaining 85 per cent.

The fascinating result is an international mix of social culture like nowhere else on Earth.

Workers hail from all corners of the globe. Many are professionals, highly paid, lightly taxed and on short-term contracts, so they dine out, shop and travel frequently – underpinning a solid platform for tourism, where restaurants abound, shopping is abundant and consumer goods are plentiful and cheap.

Dubai’s enormous international mix of Indians, French, Italians, English and Australians was demonstrated well on the inbound Emirates flight, when it took almost a full minute for the purser to read through the languages its cabin crew could speak.

Dubai city itself, is the heart of the nation, with a skyline that changes almost hourly. Estimates vary, but it is rumoured that as much as 40 per cent of the world’s heavy construction cranes are currently in Dubai, and a quick glance will leave you with little doubt this is so.

Sand dune tours

Outside the city, much of the land is flat – billiard table flat – with sand in abundance, but as you journey further into the hinterland, sand dunes begin to undulate and take shape as an ideal playground for four-wheel drive ‘dune bashing’.

In the every evening, dozens of four-wheel drive tours ferry visitors out of the city and into the heart of Bedouin country. The high-powered vehicles charge across the sand dunes, before pausing to enjoy the sunset and dinner under the stars in a Bedouin-style camp. Dinner is followed by cultural dancing and camel rides through the dunes.

Purists may bemoan the tour as not an authentic Arab experience, but for the uninitiated, it certainly gave us an enjoyable glimpse into traditional nomadic lifestyle. The food is great, and tearing around the sand dunes is a fun way to spend an afternoon.

The Creek

Back in Dubai, visitors soon realise that The Creek is the city’s central lifeline - its historic links intrinsically tied to the waters winding through the central business precinct. It is here that the spirit of Dubai is best appreciated, as life traditions stretching back before the birth of Christ, co-exist beside 21st Century architecture, skyscrapers and digital technologies.

Juxtaposition is everywhere. Luxury yachts are moored beside traditional wooden dhows, where street vendors haggle over gold trinkets, and across the street, e-commerce banks are trading billions of dollars on global commodities, and helicopters transfer clients along the same routes as local water taxis.

Retail therapy

Dubai is also deservedly famous for shopping, where every facet of goods can be purchased.

The major malls are all air-conditioned, ultra-modern and lined with designer boutiques and famous brand signage. Again, the international nature of Dubai is evident, with famous European, US and Japanese designer boutiques retailing at a fraction of Australian prices.

While it may be difficult to leave the comfort and convenience of the major shopping malls, a visit to the local souks (markets), or streets-side shops will not disappoint – guaranteeing wonderful memories on top of loads of shopping bargains.

The souks are a warren of alleyways and woven throughout the older parts of the city, with walkways opening onto hidden shopfronts offering any number of products.

Discovery is part of the souk’s charm. Fragrant frankincense floats on the air as local vendors chant their spiel, enticing shoppers to come in and look, and while keen to make a sale, staff lack the pushy sales approach usually associated with hawkers, so exploring the stores is a pleasant experience.

Heritage

Dubai’s rapid development has come at a price in terms of preserving its heritage values. The city does offer a restored historic precinct, but it is small and lacks the authenticity of other Emirate states.

The Al Bastakiya Heritage Centre was originally developed in the 1890s and will soon undergo significant restoration. The site has been earmarked for cultural and tourism activities and will soon feature traditional markets alongside tourism and cultural activities, breathing new life into the centre.

Nearby, Dubai Museum is sensational, and offers an interpretive system of dioramas and displays tracing the history and development of the region and its people. Located inside an old fort, the museum captures an atmosphere of times past and is a fascinating way to spend a few hours.

Oman

But what Dubai lacks in heritage, can be found a few hours drive across the border in Oman, where unlike its flashy and more famous neighbour, has remained steadfast to its traditions – shying away from high-rise development, instead promoting itself as ‘a window into the Arabian Peninsula’.

Dubai’s glass-walled skyscrapers are replaced with Oman’s rustic, low-rise structures in Mediterranean style, painted in pastels and whites.

Visually, Oman is stunning, with barren hills towering behind the capital Muscat, dotted with forts overlooking the harbour. This is Sinbad the Sailor country and it is easy to imagine life back then as you travel throughout the country.

Oman has only recently opened for tourism, and that holds enormous appeal for many travellers.

But holding onto the past doesn’t mean Oman lacks infrastructure and service - on the contrary. The nation boasts internationally branded luxury hotels, including the incredible Shangri-la Barr Al Jissah resort, the Chedi Muscat and much awarded Al Bustan hotel.

Oman is not seeking massive visitor numbers, preferring instead to provide a more personal experience without crowded beaches and busy malls.

This is a place where you can still find a deserted beach along 1700 kilometres of coastline, or visit one of the country’s 500-plus forts, some of which you will have all to yourself.

The inland trading centre of Niswa has a simple and tranquil essence. Here, modern ways are far removed, as local markets trade goats and cattle in the same way its has for thousands of years.

Dramatic contrasts

In contrast to the flat sands of Dubai, Oman’s landscape is dramatic, with 3000 metre stone mountains plunging into the sea, sheltered beaches with lapping waves and water visibility that is often as clear as a swimming pool, teeming with life.

The Muscat waterfront is the place to be at sunset as the still evening air is broken by the wailing rhythms of the Imam calling followers to prayer and the pungent aromas of outdoor cooking.

As darkness descends, local menfolk in flowing robes (dishdasha) congregate in cafes along the harbour front to smoke fragrant tobaccos and play cards over coffee. Life here is about sharing time with friends and family, and a slower pace of life. A visit will wash months of stress away without washing away your bank balance.

TRAVELTALK TIPS

Currency
Oman and Dubai work on different currencies and vastly different exchange rates.

Visas
Australian travellers staying in Dubai don’t require an additional visa for Oman.

Safety
Oman and Dubai are considered very safe destinations. Crime is almost non-existent, most people don’t lock vehicles and there is an atmosphere of safety in all public areas.

Travel
Oman is around three hours drive from Dubai, and most locals drive rather than fly as they consider it quicker – once the wait at airports, baggage handling and so on are factored in. Roads are better than most Australian highways, with several lanes in each direction and street lighting all the way – so self drive is an attractive option.

The bigger, the better
Dubai is big on being big. It is home to the world’s tallest building, the world’s largest shopping mall, the world’s largest aquarium, the world’s largest indoor ski park, the world’s largest theme park ….

Employment is so tight that one Oman hotel brought in 2500 workers from India for its own site works.

Oman is very traditional and in some areas motor vehicles have only become regular transport in the past 40 years.