Grand Pacific coastal cruising
March 2009
Australia’s coastal highways rival the best in the world, so it was with some excitement that the Sinclair family readied to explore one of Australia’s newest landmark motorways – the Grand Pacific Drive and ‘that’ bridge.
Between us and the wide open road to Wollongong lay Sydney, a nightmare city to navigate at the best of times. Throw into the equation a seven-metre motorhome, sizzling summer temperatures nudging 40 degrees for the third day running, and peak hour traffic - and we reluctantly admitted this was way more of a challenge than we wanted to face; instead opting to spend another lazy afternoon poolside enjoying the shade and native beauty of Sydney’s Lane Cove Holiday Park, which had been our base for the previous few days.
With the city, and its infuriating and unfriendly tollway system safely in our rear view mirror, (we are still receiving fines months after our visit!), the calm waters of Botany Bay and the Grand Pacific Drive beckoned.
Peeling left off the Princes Highway, onto the Grand Pacific Drive, our slow-paced meander took us through the local forests of the Royal National Park. Surprisingly, this expansive parkland has remained one of Sydney’s best kept nature-secrets, with its honeycomb of sidetracks and bushwalks exploring tree-lined valleys, cascading rivers and secluded coves. So while Bondi may be packed to the rafters, visitors can often find they have these private beaches entirely to themselves.
The park offers an exhilarating experience for driver and passengers alike with its combination of slow, sweeping turns, steep climbs, hairpin switch-backs and spectacular vistas. Take your time and allow several hours to get the most out of this memorable stretch of bitumen. There’s no shortage of lovely spots in which to safely pull over and savour the solitude and the views.
And while the forests are fun, the coast is equally captivating. As the bush starts to morph into coastal shrubbery, the ‘wow’ factor kicked in, and we marvelled at the vibrant green mountains plunging into the cobalt-blue waters of the Pacific Ocean, rugged rocky headlands striking out from the shores below. Eye candy for the soul.
And like all great coastal highways, the Grand Pacific Drive eventually descends from on high, down to water-level, offering breathtaking views and safe parking at dozens of lookouts along the way.
Our days began with stunning sunrises, our afternoons filled with all manner of local entertainment, like watching hang-gliders and other like-minded thrillseekers hurl themselves off the perfectly safe cliffs above Stanwell Tops, into the unpredictable rising thermals and wind drafts along the mountains. We watch in disbelief and agree the views would be unbeatable, once you stopped screaming and pried open your eyes long enough to enjoy it.
Just south of Stanwell Park lies the highway’s major landmark, the imposing Seacliff Bridge, the cornerstone of the new highway. From the day the bridge opened it became an instant icon, featuring in dozens of TV commercials and travel magazines.
The bridge is a focal point for the journey, offering excellent views from above and below, so make a stop at the roadside lookouts, or the seaside hideaway of Clifton to fully appreciate its grandeur.
The new coastal drive has proved a Mecca for Wollongong and its surrounding towns and has seen the coastal city enjoy a fresh wave of tourism development, including world-class hotels and attractions.
The change has reinvigorated local townships and converted a once lacklustre coal mining city into the vibrant tourism gateway to the stunning south coast that it is today.
Wollongong is a well-serviced hub, perfectly positioned from which to explore nearby townships, and other regional attractions, so plan to spend a few days in and around the city to get the most from this beautiful part of Australia.
Not much further south is Kiama – another ideal spot to in which to overnight or spend a few days. Its quaint Main Street awash with restaurants, alfresco cafes and a vibrant local club scene, all confirming Kiama’s popularity as a holiday destination for Sydneysiders. For us, it was fish and chips at the lighthouse marina to enjoy the glowing sunset and get to know the local seagulls.
Everything is close in Kiama. Its famous lighthouse and blowhole mark provide the central point for other attractions, with the town centre, marina, beaches, parklands and ocean rock pools all within walking distance. There’s nothing quite like a refreshing sunrise swim in the rock-lined ocean baths as the sun rises from the Pacific.
Kiama has quite a number of holiday parks, further testament to its popularity as a local seaside retreat, but locals will soon tell you the town fills up quickly, especially on weekends, so forward bookings are recommended.
The southern coast is a treasure trove of striking beaches and welcoming townships, each one seemingly prettier than the last, while the towering mounds of the Great Dividing Range which flank the coastline holds its own special appeal for those who like their mountain roads tight and twisty.
With time on our side, we are presented with the delicious dilemma of a self-drive holiday – choice! Do we head south along the coast into Victoria, or west through the Southern Highlands and onto the wide open plains towards Goulbourn, Canberra or the historic radio telescope at Parkes – scene of the movie, The Dish? We’ll look forward to sharing the next leg of our journey with you in the next edition.
TRAVELTALK TIPS
Sydney is not well suited to motorhome or caravan traffic and its tollways can be very expensive and difficult to avoid. With tolls charging up to $11 each way, and often offering no option to pay as you go, this is an extraordinarily un-visitor-friendly system. Our advice is to buy a visitor’s toll pass (online at http://www.sydneymotorways.com) before arriving in Sydney, or better still, stay outside the city and venture in by public transport.
The Lane Cove Holiday Park sits on the edge of the national park and offers a serene and secluded retreat from the rush of the city. Local rangers host spotlight tours at night, the park is full of great hiking trails and there is a small lake with boats and paddlecraft available for hire on weekends.
Make a stop at Inscription Point at Kurnell (Botany Bay on the way to Wollongong) - the landing place of Captain Cook. The site has a stone monument to mark the landing place and an interpretive centre that features the ‘eight days that changed the world’ as Cook and his crew met local Aboriginals.
The cliffs at Stanwell Tops, just north of Seacliff Bridge, are home to one of Australia’s most famous aviation pioneers, Lawrence Hargreaves, who used the reliable sea-breezes to perfect his box-kites – one of which was big enough to lift him off the ground. Thrillseekers can buy a hang-glider flight with an experienced instructor.
Have your camera ready when crossing Seacliff Bridge. You can’t stop on the bridge, but there are parks at either end with great views.
The Illawarra Fly treetop walk at Robertson is an enjoyable day trip from Wollongong, and showcases the towering Southern Highland forests.
Breakfast or morning tea at the Austi Beach Cafe (Austinmer Beach, north of Wollongong) is a scrumptious way to start any day; and Bombora, overlooking the harbour, is a good choice for family dining.