Kicking back on Route 72
Getting out of the city to explore paths less travelled is the highlight of any New Zealand self drive itinerary, according to self-confessed drive holiday junkie - Craig Sinclair.
One of New Zealand’s lesser-known highways leads travellers into the heartland of the nation’s spectacular South Island, showcasing some of the region’s most breathtaking views and providing a peek into attractions many locals prefer to keep to themselves.
Inland Scenic Route 72 encapsulates the essence of regional New Zealand and offers a snap shot of real life in one of the world’s most beautiful locations.
Beginning near the Waipara wine region, around an hour north of Christchurch, Route 72 gently weaves its way along the eastern foothills of the Southern Alps, traversing the patchwork of farms of the Canterbury Plains before joining State Highway #1 at the gateway to Mt Cook, in Geraldine.
The highway is a classic country road with rolling hills, wide-open plains, spectacular alpine vistas, crystal clear rivers and not a major town in sight.
At its northern gateway, the Waipara Valley makes for an ideal base from which to explore local wineries or to take a jaunt to the hot water pools at Hanmer Springs.
The more adventurous can also experience bridge-bungy or white water rafting, and recover from the adrenalin rush with a slow ride on the historic Waipara railway.
Waipara and neighbouring Amberley are home to some of New Zealand’s most successful boutique wineries to the likes of Pegasus Bay. This is your chance to sample the local Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris, for which the valley is becoming renowned.
Route 72 holds strong all-year round appeal, with summer’s warmer weather inviting a swim in the many rivers and creeks along the route. In autumn and spring, the fishing is sensational and the farms and valleys blossom with colour. And in winter, you’ll be captivated by the splendour of snow-capped mountains, frosty mornings and crystal clear skies.
The highway is best explored over two to three days, allowing for frequent stops to take photos, wander through local townships or just be still for a moment and appreciate the awesome beauty.
The fast-flowing Waimakirriri, Rakaia and Rangitata rivers provide the ideal picnic spots, and offer first-class fishing. Swimming and jet-boating are other popular pastimes for tourists and locals alike.
The rivers are classic South Island ‘free-stone’ waterways, with wide, clear flowing currents washing over smooth, grey river stones, making an inviting stop for a break, or an overnight camp.
In many cases, the road shoulders allow for a smooth exit with access right onto the river-stones at the water’s edge.
Teach your children the art of skipping stones, or test your skills against the cunning salmon and trout, which hide in the deeper waterholes and alongside river-grasses. The water is so clear, you can watch the fish preparing to ambush their next meal.
The tiny township of Glentunnel is the mid-way point of the highway – and is an insight into regional life in New Zealand.
Nestled at the foot of the Southern Alps, backed by babbling brooks, the friendly town consists of a general store, local hotel, community facilities and a clean holiday park.
It’s also a launch point for hot air balloon enthusiasts, so travellers can book a ride, or simply enjoy the colourful spectacle of the balloons as they inflate and gently lift into flight.
Glentunnel in winter is a stunning blend of inland plains frosted white with snow, meeting the towering alps, with mountain pines climbing high into the craggy peaks towards Craigieburn Forest Park.
The largest town on Route 72 is the ski-resort town of Methven.
Because of the rapid and dramatic weather changes in the Southern Alps, there are few resorts on the mountains. Instead, ski accommodation is hosted in small sub-alpine towns on the plains where a ready supply of motels, hotels, B&Bs, hostels and holiday parks are ready to welcome travellers.
Methven is a buzzy little town which lights up in winter with a mass of après ski activities at local hotels – with a popular favourite the aptly named, Blue Bar. Another must is a coffee in the quirky café, Primo and Secondo, which combines a coffee shop with a store selling retro items that are back in vogue, along with local crafts.
Owned by local celebrity, Di Harris, Beluga Lodge offers boutique 4.5-star ‘lodge-style’ accommodation in a range of self-contained rooms and villas, with private gardens and local artworks. Located in the town’s centre, Beluga is just a short walk from all local attractions.
My journey along Inland Scenic Route 72 finishes in Geraldine, which is a gateway township to Mount Cook – complete with its boutique-shopping village and small museum.
It’s easy to see why this highway is so popular with locals – so make the turn onto the backroads and be rewarded with a stunning and memorable journey.
Traveltalk tips
The highway can be driven from north or south. It intersects with State Highway #1 at Geraldine near Mount Cook in the south, and again at Amberley in the north. It also meets the main trans-alpine highway from Christchurch to Greymouth so can be driven in its entirety, or in sections.
Spend a full day in Christchurch, departing mid afternoon and stay overnight in the Waipara region. You’ll then be ready to head off early the next morning and catch the valley as it wakes up.
Methven is the base for access to the 2075-metre Mt Hutt ski field, which has just emerged from a major spending spree on new lifts and snow-making equipment.
Shuttles run regularly up and down the mountain and ski/accommodation packages and general supplies are readily available.
Kea’s, or mountain parrots, are common among the alps. The beauty of these parrots belies their destructive tendencies, and they have been known to tear off windscreen wipers and completely remove window rubbers from parked vehicles.